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GREENLAND

Greenland’s remote and little-visited ice fjords hold arctic grandeur. Towers, arches and walls of ancient blue ice reach upward. Steep-walled fjords, coastal mountains, tundra in autumn color, the vast Greenland Ice Sheet, and the Aurora Borealis combine to make an incomparable landscape. We used the three-masted schooner Rembrandt van Rijn as a home base. The town we visited with its colorful little houses on is called simply Ittoqqortoormiit. Ice losses continue at an alarming, unprecedented rate.